My last post on building calculator keypads explained all the methods I tried then presented on at the 2023 Hewlett-Packard Handheld Conference. Last year, I bought an Elegoo Phecda Laser Cutter as the next step in building keypads, and the results are really impressive! This particular model uses a laser diode which is much cheaper than other types of lasers like CO2. Common power ratings for diode lasers are 5.5W and 10W although some as low as 1W are used for etching rather than cutting. My laser cutter is a 10W model and also comes in a 20W version that is a lot more expensive. As it turns out, 10W is more than powerful enough for building keypads. Diode lasers like this one have a couple limitations - they don't cut blue material well since it absorbs the laser wavelength and they can't mark or cut harder materials like metal. They also aren't supposed to be able to cut white acrylic but mine punched straight through 3mm of black acrylic and 3mm of white acrylic underneath it.
The first thing to figure out was the software to run the laser. A lot of people swear by LightBurn which is $99 for the license plus an extra yearly fee to access updates. Instead of that, I went with LaserGRBL which is free and works on Windows. Since then, I switched my laptop over to Ubuntu, so LaserGRBL needs to run in a virtual machine. My laser cutter was shipped to my next work destination, so I'll need to wait a few months to test that everything works. Setting up LaserGRBL was really easy. It includes test images for cutting to figure out the ideal number of passes and laser strength to use on a particular piece. For etching images, the default resolution was pretty low, so I changed it to 16 lines per millimeter since the focal size of the laser is 0.06 x 0.06mm. This was enough to get it cutting and etching exactly how I wanted. Generating images for etching was easy using Python to create an SVG then converting to PNG as with my other keypads. The laser's cutting mode uses SVG images directly.